Hidden History of a car
Try Carwatch for help
Buying a car is often the second biggest financial committment you will
ever make. Buying a house is the biggest of course - and before you buy
a house you have searches done by solicitors and checks by surveyors
to check that the house isn't falling down, or that tower blocks aren't
going to be built in the garden next door.
People accept that having these checks for buying a house are sensible.
It'd be a bad investment to buy a house which was going to fall down.
With a car these things are more complicated. You can't see the problems
that might arise, so what are these problems? And how can you find out
if the car you're planning on buying is a good buy or not?
Is the vehicle stolen or wanted by the Police?
Has it been written-off?
Have its number plates been changed?
Other details include: make and model, colour changes, date of first
registration, chassis/VIN and engine numbers, number of previous owners,
date of last keeper change and import alerts.
All Carwatch data supplied by DVLA, Police, and Association
of British Insurers.
Simple informaiton like checking the make and model are important to
make sure you are getting the car you think you are. Colour changes can
indicate accident damage and chassis numbers all need to tally with what
is officially recorded and what the car is in front of you.
By highlighting potential problems like it being stolen or accident
damaged will stop you from buying a car which will be a complete nightmare
to own!
Advice when buying a car -
Whoever you buy from you can use carwatch.
Buying from a Franchised Dealer
A new car dealership has a reputation to protect, so it can be one of
the safest places to buy a used vehicle. There is also a greater level
of consumer protection when you buy from a dealer, rather than privately.
A dealer, for example, is legally responsible for ensuring that any
outstanding hire purchase is settled with the finance company. They
might even know the history of the car from new.
If you know which make and model you want, the relevant franchised dealer
should be able to offer you a wide choice of used and nearly-new vehicles
and perhaps a trade-in on your old car. But shop around in your area
for the best deal and, if you are trading in, focus upon the final, net
cost. Read the small print very carefully of any finance deals you are
being shown. Make sure if its a leasing agreement you know!
Buying from a Used Car Dealer
Used car dealers vary widely but many are long established with a good
reputation. Some specialise in newer cars or vehicles of a particular
type. A reputable used car dealer will have checked the vehicles for
sale beforehand to ensure there is no “history” or outstanding
finance. (Again, he will be responsible for settling outstanding hire
purchase agreements.) But don't trust to chance; make you sure you
check too.
Buying Privately
Although the private market can sometimes offer potential bargains, it
is perhaps the riskiest way to buy a used car - particularly if you
don't know the seller. The car, for example, might not belong to the
seller. Or it could be a badly repaired write-off. Be especially careful
to check all the documentation and insist on meeting at the seller's
house or place of work. Print off our checklist (see menu on left of
page) and take it with you when you view the car. Be sure to ask the
seller the following questions and then check with Carwatch before
you hand over your money.
Ask the seller if the vehicle belongs to him or her
Ask if there is outstanding finance to be settled
Ask if the vehicle has ever been involved in a major accident
Get a signed receipt for your payment
Help and Advice - Checklist
The following checklist has been put together by Carwatch's motor trade
experts.
Some checks - such as under the bonnet and the test drive - are best
carried out by someone with motoring knowledge. If you are inexperienced,
is there a friend or family member you can take with you?
VIN Number / V5 / M.O.T. / Service Book
Compare VIN (chassis) number to that on the Vehicle Registration Document
(V5)
Is there evidence of welding/re-spray/tar around the VIN plate?
Check for disturbed bolts, scratches or other tampering with the VIN
plate
Compare VIN, engine number and colour of the vehicle, with that recorded
on the V5
Check etches on windows, lamps, sunroof for matching VIN or VRM (ensure
no stickers cover etches)
Ensure all numbers and letters on etches are aligned
Check V5 for watermark - and check for any obvious spelling errors!
Check date of first registration on V5 corresponds with number plate
prefix
Compare the seller's address with the registered keeper address
Check M.O.T watermark/expiry date
Check first page of service book ref VRM, VIN and date of first registration
Check garage stamp on service book; call garage to verify service dates
and mileage reading
Hand-written entries on service book - e.g. ink colour - should differ
from one entry to the next.
Likewise, if service record is genuine, angle of garage's stamp is likely
to be slightly different each time
Are there any missing pages in service book - or a gap between services?
Compare service mileage readings (and dates) with mileages on previous
M.O.T.s
Consider calling previous keeper to verify mileage and cambelt change
Signs of Clocking
Excessive wear on driver's seat, door seals, carpet, pedal rubbers, gear
knob or steering wheel indicate high mileage
Check for digit alignment/fingermarks on speedometer; overly shiny screws
on instrument panel; plus scratches or pin marks on speedometer digits
Check bonnet, front panels, front wings and bumper for excessive stone-chipping
or signs of respray work
Telephone previous keeper on V5 to verify mileage when sold
Signs of Accidents
Check carefully for the following:
Body panel gaps not aligned throughout
Welding/damage to front or rear panels
Welding/damage under rear seats or boot
Respray on plastic trim, window seals, or under door handles
Poor paintwork quality - mismatched, patchy or bubbles under paint
Panel damage/bodyfiller
Damaged/compressed chassis
Rusty sills/wheel arches
Bent steering wheel
Water leak in boot, sun roof leak
Lock changes, or locks that have been tampered with
Excessive tyre wear
Car pulls to one side when driven
Discoloured hood
Check for matching upholstery and look under new seat covers
Tyres/Wheels
Check for:
Depth of tread
Same tyre makes/sizes
Damage to sidewall/tread
Damaged rims/alloys
Wheel trims
Under Bonnet
Ensure engine is cold before you start by placing your hand on it.
Listen for abnormal noises:
When starting engine from cold
From starter motor
From camshaft/crankshaft/tappets
From exhaust
Does it idle smoothly when cold - and when hot?
Any blue smoke or excessive fumes from exhaust?
Check all fluids
Test Drive
First insure yourself for the test drive
Listen for abnormal noise from:
Camshaft / crankshaft / tappets
Engine - is there a misfire?
Gears/clutch bearings
Exhaust
Wheel bearings
Dampers (shock absorber)
CV joints (with steering on full lock)
Look out for:
Abnormal behaviour/noise on acceleration and hard braking
Blown turbo, head gasket
Blue smoke
Sticking gears
Slipping automatic box
Gears which skip or jump out
Slipping/high clutch
Juddering or pulling brakes
Overheating
Try out:
Kickdown (on automatics)
All gears/4W engagement
Wheel alignment
Handbrake
ABS
After Test Drive
Check for:
Fresh leaks
Excessive smoke/fumes
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